Beauty active ingredients for skin care: which ones to choose according to my concern?

COSMETICS Niacinamide, retinol, glycolic acid... Here is the illustrated guide to choose according to each need: blemishes, dilated pores, dehydration...

By Ana Morales

This (illustrated) guide to the skincare beauty assets everyone is talking about is fair and necessary. The trend in the cosmetics industry is putting the focus on the active ingredients of its creams and cosmetics, getting rid of other generic messages that we are used to. Now it is common - this is how many brands are wanting it, including some of the most viral ones like The Ordinary, one of the first to inaugurate this trend - to buy a cream with retinol, a serum with vitamin C or a glycolic acid toner. And that implies raising our level of cosmetic knowledge and knowing what the benefits of these active ingredients are in order to know how to choose correctly. Here is the guide to know which active ingredients are the most suitable depending on each concern: blemishes, sensitive skin, enlarged pores, dehydration, oiliness... and a quick dictionary with the main benefits of these active ingredients. Because not only retinol live cosmetic trends in 2021.

ferulic acid

It has great antioxidant power, which is why it is usually combined with vitamin C and E to create formulas that help combat the effects of free radicals and give light to dull skin. Fights sun damage and that caused by pollution. It is especially indicated to prevent signs of premature aging such as spots and expression lines.

Glycolic Acid

It is one of the active ingredients preferred by dermatologists and pharmacists to improve skin texture due to its keratolytic action. Unifies the tone, reduces the appearance of blemishes and improves the appearance of pores. It can also help treat blemishes and improve acne. No wonder pharmacist Asun Arias says it's the asset you'd take to a desert island (along with vitamin C and retinol).

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Hyaluronic acid

This active ingredient is found naturally in different organs and tissues of our body. It has a great capacity to attract water and retain it, which is why it is one of the fashionable moisturizing and plumping active ingredients. Hence, it is a good option to treat first lines of expression, also in sensitive skin.

Lactic acid

It has keratolytic action, making it a good alternative to unify skin tone, improve the appearance of pores and smooth fine wrinkles. In addition, as Dr. Pedro Jaén explains, one of its great advantages is that this exfoliating action is accompanied by a moisturizing effect that makes the skin "much silkier" after using it.

Salicylic acid

It is one of the most used active ingredients in anti-acne cosmetics due to its keratolytic and sebum-regulating effect, making it suitable for oily and/or blemished skin. It improves acne marks and small scars, although care must be taken on sensitive skin as it can cause irritation and dryness.

squalane

As explained by Pedro Catalá, cosmetologist and founder of Twelve Beauty, this vegetable lipid is another of the fashionable active ingredients since it has a film-forming effect, that is, it reduces the evaporation of water in the skin, in addition to delaying skin aging and having antioxidant capacity. That is why it is one of the great chosen to treat dehydrated skin and with first wrinkles.

Niacinamide

Another of the great fashion assets of 2021, this vitamin B3 derivative has great anti-inflammatory power, which is why it is usually included in cosmetics for sensitive skin. As if that were not enough, it has a protective action against pollution, improves acne, unifies skin tone and even attenuates the first signs of aging. Let's say that we are dealing with the universal cosmetic ingredient suitable for all skin types and for almost any dermo-cosmetic concern. "Applying niacinamide topically benefits all skin types and all ages," says Paula Begoun, creator of Paula's Choice.

Pro-vitamin B5

It maintains the hydration of the skin while filling, smoothing and providing luminosity. It is an active ally in creams for dehydrated skin and with the first signs of aging.

Retinol

Retinol has a few benefits for the skin that make it one of the most recommended active ingredients by dermatologists. It is the most common cosmetic formula of retinoic acid and serves, among other things, to unify skin tone, fade spots, reduce the first signs of aging, smooth the appearance of pores and regulate oil production. Of course, its use requires a certain adaptation so that the skin generates tolerance to this active ingredient.

Vitamin C

Dermatologists say that this active ingredient should be the first thing we put on our skin every morning before sunscreen. It has an antioxidant effect, neutralizes free radicals and helps with the synthesis of collagen, in addition to giving luminosity to the skin, slightly reducing wrinkles and preventing the appearance of spots. That is why there are more and more serums for daily use with this active ingredient.

Vitamin E

The quintessential antioxidant, moisturizes the skin and protects it from the effects of free radicals. It also helps prevent the first signs of aging.

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By Ana Morales