Notorious cosmetic ingredients: how do they really affect your skin?

Why do they have a bad name? It all started in 2011, when the use of long and branched chain parabens, which are not those used in cosmetics, was prohibited. On the contrary, “short-chain parabens are considered safe for use and the cosmetic regulations establish what doses can be used to be considered safe. But this information was taken that long-chain ones were prohibited, this difference was not specified, and the message spread that all parabens in general are not safe for the consumer”, clarifies the Mentactiva expert.

In what cases should they not be used? According to Dr. Gallo, its use would not be recommended only in the case of "skin that has developed contact dermatitis". However, every formula must contain some type of preservative to guarantee its stability: "Right now, the preservative The most commonly found in cosmetic products is kathon CG (on the label, methylisothiazolinone or methylchloroisothiazolinone)”, he indicates.

Sulphates

What are they for? "They are the surfactants in gels and shampoos, the chemical substances that form the foam and their main function is to make fats soluble in water and thus clean," says Marta Barrero. In addition, the expert points out that they are the active ingredients that clean the best, but "they can be easily removed from formulations and use syndet (synthetic detergent), which respects the skin's lipid layer, to avoid damaging it with frequent use."

Why do they have a bad name? Precisely because of their main function, that of being an effective cleanser, they can be irritating, which is why they are avoided in many cosmetics, especially those indicated for hair. However, María José Gea adds that “it is in the hands of the formulator to create a product that compensates for the irritation that sulfate can cause. So in the end, the final product doesn't have to have that irritating property that the separate ingredient might have.”

In what cases should they not be used? Due to this possible dryness or irritation, it is convenient for sensitive skin to avoid them although, as we said before, not all products with sulfates have to have this quality.

Perfumes

What are they for? “They have an organoleptic function, they make the product more pleasant to use. You can perfectly do without them, but in general, on normal skin they are used because, in the end, cosmetics are about sensations and, on many occasions, we use the product for the feeling it gives us of well-being”, explains María José. Gea. It also indicates that they are useful to mask the smell -not always pleasant- of certain ingredients (which is why products without artificial perfumes do not usually smell "good").