New trends in dermocosmetics

Cosmeceuticals and neurocosmetics, active and intelligent personal care cosmetics. Throughout the different stages of life, the skin undergoes physiological changes: wrinkles, spots, changes in tone and pigmentation appear... The passage of time cannot be controlled, but we can take care of the skin through the most innovative and advanced dermocosmetics today1.

CosmeceuticalsCosmeceuticals have a longer track record than neurocosmetics. The term “cosmeceutical” dates back to 1984 and is defined as a hybrid topical product with cosmetic-pharmaceutical characteristics that contains active ingredients with an effect on the user.2, 3

They act effectively on the dermis, and their application affects both the appearance and the cellular structure; instead, traditional cosmetics remain in more superficial layers. The number of active ingredients and concentration levels are higher than those of cosmetics, and its effect is more effective. For all these reasons, it is recommended that an expert supervise its application, so that he or she can carry out more active advice and follow-up than with traditional cosmetics4.

Therapeutic indication ² There is currently no classification regarding the indication of cosmeceuticals. The indication is made based on the individual conditions of each person, according to their etiology:

Common ingredients of cosmeceuticals ⁵ AntioxidantsEvery day we are exposed to external factors such as pollution, tobacco or ultraviolet radiation (UV), which can cause changes in the skin. There are also internal factors, such as the generation of free radical molecules during cell metabolism in our body.

The antioxidant role is based on the elimination of free radicals, thus reducing inflammation and offering protection to the skin against cancer and sun damage. Antioxidant substances are the following:

Hydroxy acids There are three types depending on their molecular structure: alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids and polyhydroxy acids. They improve the texture of the skin, moisturize it and reduce the signs of aging, and help eliminate dead cells from the epidermis.

Retinoids (Vitamin A)The natural or synthetic form of vitamin A can partially reverse skin changes induced by sun exposure. Tretinoin or retinoic acid, retinol and retinaldehyde have antioxidant action and activate specific genes and proteins.

Solar filtersThey are one of the most important because they protect against sun damage, photoaging and skin cancer.

Hydroquinone Lightens the skin against cutaneous hyperpigmentation: melasma, chloasma, senile lentigo or freckles. Ascorbic acid (vitamin C), kojic acid, azelaic acid, licorice extract, and some botanicals (eg, curcumin, silymarin, maritime pine, ginkgo biloba, green tea extract, grape seed extract , aloe vera, witch hazel, allantoin, and ferulic acid) have anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin-soothing properties.

Peptides and proteinsThey are short chains of amino acids that stimulate repair or inhibit processes that accelerate skin aging. They heal wounds, repair damaged tissue and help repair skin from sun exposure. An example is the pentapeptide-3 pal-KTTKS, which regenerates cells at the level of the epidermis.

Growth factors These proteins promote wound healing and repair damaged tissue and skin from sun exposure. Multiple growth factors stimulate the production of collagen and elastin.

NeurocosmeticsThe term “neurocosmetics” was coined in 2007. It is the branch of cosmetics that studies the connection between the skin and the nervous system. Neurocosmetics are defined as active ingredients that act on the cutaneous nervous system ⁶ .

Its formulation is based on the so-called NICE system (nerve, immune, skin and endocrine system) and traditional Chinese medicine. They stimulate beta-endorphins (well-being hormones), improve the immune system through physiological and psychological actions, and influence aesthetic aspects ⁷ .

Users are attracted to neurocosmetics for the feeling of well-being and the effects they produce on the body, as they help to feel relaxation and comfort. Neurocosmetics also appeal to those who are sensitive to certain cosmetic components and are looking for other alternatives ⁸ .

Relationship between the brain and the skin ^9,10 The skin is the most innervated organ and is closely related to the central nervous system, sharing hormones, neurotransmitters and receptors. Both communicate by neurotransmitters that come into contact through nerve fibers and skin cells. They are capable of secreting endorphins in response to different situations and emotions: pain, pleasant events, laughter, etc.

Most of the cutaneous nerves are sensory; the skin acts as a receptor for somatosensory stimuli: pain, temperature, pressure, vibration, touch, itching.

Neurocosmetics act on the CB2 cannabinoid receptors of keratinocytes, located in the epidermis, increasing levels of beta-endorphins and inducing states of well-being and pleasure, also improving the appearance of the skin.

Smart cosmetic ingredients ^9.11

Techniques in neurocosmetics ⁷

Cosmetics consumption is booming, and indeed the national personal care market has grown in recent years ¹² . Taking into account the lifestyle of the Spanish population, it is easy to guess that the user will tend to opt for "intelligent cosmetics and happiness" (neurocosmetics), "active cosmetics" (cosmeceuticals) and "ecological and BIO " (natural cosmetics).

Bibliography1. Changes in the skin due to aging. MedlinePlus, 2020. Available at: https://medlineplus.gov/spanish/ency/article/004014.htm (last updated: February 2020).2. Pandey A, Jatana GK, Sonthalia S. Cosmeceuticals. NCBI, 2020. Available at: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK544223/ (last updated: November 2019).3. Sibari Republic Science & Cosmetics, 2019. Available at: https://sibarirepublic.com/que-es-la-cosmeceutica-diferencia-entre-cosmetica-y-cosmeceutica/ (last updated: March 2019).4. Cosmeceuticalcenter, 2020. Cosmoceuticals: they act effectively on the skin, its structure and its functioning. Available at: https://www.cosmeceuticalcenter.com/conceptos/cosmeceuticos.php5. The Australasian College of Dermatologists, 2019. Cosmeceuticals. Available at: https://www.dermcoll.edu.au/atoz/cosmeceuticals/6. Omicsonline. International Conference on Dermatology and Cosmetology, 2018. Neurocosmetics. Available at: https://www.omicsonline.org/conferences-list/neurocosmetics7. Morganti PF, Chen HD, Gao XH, Gazzaniga G, Morganti G. Natural ingredient for advanced neurocosmetics. SkinCare. Personal Care, 2013. Available at: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/236240531_Natural_Ingredient_for_advanced_neurocosmetics8. Beautymarket, 2016. Neurocosmetics: the direct connection between skin and mind. Available at: https://www.beautymarket.es/estetica/neurocosmetica-la-conexion-directa-entre-la-piel-y-la-mente-estetica-9443.php9. Ruiz Martínez M.ª, Clarés Naveros B, Gallardo Lara V. Neurocosmetics. Cosmetic dermatology. 2007; 22(5): 259-262.10. Trow R, Trow C. Neurocosmetics-A new frontier? Medical. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, 2007. Available at: https://emaniocreativecom.ipage.com/files/education/Carol-Articles/categories/6-GENERAL-ARTICLES/24-Neurocosmetics.pdf11. Neurocosmetics. Smart cosmetics that connect skin and brain. Korea Cosmetics, 2020. Available at: https://cosmeticadecorea.com/neurocosmetica12. The Spanish spent more than 6,000 million on taking care of themselves outside in 2018, 1.9% more. Nielsen, 2019. Available at: https://www.nielsen.com/es/es/insights/article/2019/spaniards-spent-6000-million-caring-for-themselves-outside/