The seven ingredients against wrinkles and damaged skin that do work according to Dr. Combalia

Skin care is especially important in spring and summer months, when it is more exposed to the prolonged hours of solar radiation.Dr. Andrea Combalia, a specialist in dermatology and disseminator in her Instagram SANA SANA INSTAGRAM account, explains in the book of the same name and edited by Grijalbo which of the 'star ingredients' of cosmetics have a real effect on repair on the repairAND DERMIS PROTECTION.

"Choosing one product or another depends on the type and status of each person's skin, on the area of the skin in which it is applied and the effect that you want to achieve," says the doctor on the work.An example: "Glycolic acid at low concentration in cream format moisturizes dry skin, but at greater concentration in gel format is ideal for one or acne with acne.Selecting the ingredients and presentations of the products correctly avoid many errors ".

- Alfa and beta hydroxyacids: these are acid molecules that accelerate "the speed of the cell renewal cycle" of the skin, and thus, they perform a "superficial exfoliation without the need for friction".There are three main families, starting with alphahydroxiácidos (AHA) such as glycolic acid from sugarcane, the mandiler of almonds, the apples wheel, the grape tartaric and the lactobacillus lactic tartaric.They are soluble in water and exfoliants.

Beta hydroxyacids (BHA) are soluble in oil, so they are good to apply in fatty skin, against black points and acne, and the most famous is salicylic acid.Finally, polyhydroxyacids (PHA) are recommended for sensitive skin, through less known compounds such as gluconolactone and lactobionic acid.

- Topical retinoids: These are two forms of vitamin A with "similar but not identical effects".The first is retinoic acid or Tretinoin, which is a medication that is sold with recipe, and repairs skin firmness stimulating collagen and elastin generation.It also reduces fat secretion and has an antioxidant effect."Has everything!" Value the dermatologist.

The problem is that it can cause irritation and end up being "worse the remedy than the disease", so it is reserved for intensive medical treatments.For common use, retinol is prescribed, of more attenuated effects but equally last against spots, acne and aging of the skin.In both cases they are photosensitive, so they must be applied at night, and are contraindicated during pregnancy and breastfeeding.

- Vitamin C: As antioxidant, it helps repair the damage caused by free radicals, and intervenes in the synthesis of collagen and elastin, preventing and smoothing small wrinkles.It also causes the inhibition of the tyrosinase enzyme, which helps to unify tone and avoid spots.

The effectiveness of vitamin C in a cosmetic will depend "on purity, concentration and pH in which it is formulated".The specialist's recommendation is to acquire it in a pure way of l-ascorbic acid and opaque containers that guarantee the stability of the formula, since it deteriorates with light and oxygen.

- Hyaluronic acid: it is one of the most famous cosmetic ingredients and our dermis produces it naturally to keep the skin hydrated and without cracks, since it is a viscous polysaccharide with great capacity to retain the water.According to its molecular weight in the formula, it will have effects to greater or lesser depth, whose effectiveness will depend on the skin type.

You can also inject directly, into a procedure that is usually confused with that of the Botox, the doctor warns."Synthesizing a lot, stuffed hyaluronic acid and moisturizes the skin, while botulinum toxin relaxes muscles eliminating expression wrinkles".It is the compound that is usually used to fill cheekbones and lips: "The use of liquid silicone is prohibited!".

- Azelaic and kojic acids: Azelaic acid comes from cereals such as wheat, barley and rye, and has antibacterial properties, anti -inflammatory and antiseeborreics, all of which contributes to the treatment of acne and rosacea.It can serve as an alternative exfoliating to retinoids.

Kojic acid comes from the Koji fungus, traditionally used for the production of sake, miso or soy sauce in Japan.Its cosmetic effects were discovered by observing that the hands of the workers who used it were unusually white.Now, it applies as depigmentant and antioxidant.

-Petollets: They are obtained by cold pressure and are rich in unsaturated fatty acids such as omega 3, 6 and 9.They should not be confused with essential oils, which are obtained by distillation and are very concentrated, so it is not advised to apply them on the skin without medical supervision.

This is how oils such as Rosa Mosqueta, de Bueraja, Jojoba, Onagra or Argan, as well as almonds, avocado, sesame or macadamia are obtained.All these formulas provide bioactive ingredients, but the dermatologist recommends paying attention for example, to coconut oil, which is comedogenic and "favors the appearance of acne and black points if we apply it on the face".

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